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Hiking the Pilgrim Route from Hell day two

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Day two on the pilgrim trail

We slept quite well and woke to find a new day and only light showers of rain. The cows whose paddock we were sharing had not visited us and all was well.

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The path was very wet and muddy and my old hiking boots struggled to keep my feet dry and keep together

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The passages from the bible that dot the pilgrim trail in pretty locations remind the pilgrim of the purpose of the trail

The evening before, as we ate dinner, a procession of cars had passed us. We didn’t pay much attention although it was unusual on a quiet country lane. Suddenly the 4th car started honking enthusiastically and the passenger hung out of the window vigorously waving at us. I recognised the elg hunters and cheerfully returned the wave.

This was my favourite spot on the walk and reminded me of a Japanese garden

This was my favourite spot on the walk and reminded me of a Japanese garden

Stunning vistas across the heath

Stunning vistas across the heath

Nature surpasses planned gardens when it comes to beauty

Nature surpasses planned gardens when it comes to beauty

I prepared a modified version of my breakfast shake for both of us. After breakfast we packed up and set off for day two. As we looked across the paddock we saw a car parked beside the road and when we walked past one of the elg hunters waved to us and then spoke into his radio, presumably letting the others know that we were coming. I wonder if we spoiled both days of their hunt?! I am heartily in opposition to hunting. I think it’s bag enough that we farm animals under inhumane conditions then slaughter them. We should leave wild animals alone!

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Stunning vistas across the heath


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Sometimes the beauty nearly brings tears to my eyes


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We trudged on with our packs and hoping that it wouldn’t rain. We didn’t pass anyone and the rain came and went and came again. We had insufficient food and so our lunch was meagre and we began to fret. We were very fortunate that the first was blanketed with ripe blueberries so we picked and ate whenever we became too hungry. Our increasing hunger and food anxiety made me think of the poor displaced people of the world who trudge through hunger and despair to find a safe place to live.

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We were fortunate that nature provided for us with plentiful blueberries

As we emerged from the forest we saw the fjord and encountered earth moving equipment. It was confronting after the quiet solitude of the track. The driver had a chat with us, asking why we were there and if we’d been eating berries.

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As we emerged from the forest we saw the fjord


After that we walked to more earth works and we lost the trail because it was poorly signposted. Jenny went to ask a farmer for directions while I searched for signs. Fortunately she found a farmer able to speak English who told her which way to go. We lost precious momentum and enthusiasm but soldiered on.
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The signposts were less frequent once we left the forest


The farmland that we walked through was nowhere near as nice as the forest that we had been enjoying. We walked through an unpleasant storm and trudged on.
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Dramatic skies

We stopped at a junction in the road when we neared Vikhammer and pondered whether to keep walking to find a farm to camp or detour to find a grocery shop. To our amazement and delight a car stopped and a pleasant middle aged Norwegian woman came and asked if we were pilgrims. She told us that her cousin runs the hostel and when she found out that we needed food she offered to drive us to the shops then bring us back to the path. We were overwhelmed by their generosity and gratefully accepted. We quickly grabbed supplies from the shelves and I nearly had to physically restrain Jenny as she tired to assuage her food anxiety by buying too much.

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Sondre Vikhammer pilgrim hostel


We decided to camp to save money but as another and bigger storm blew in our resolve weakened and we were delighted to be given access to the hostel. We reveled in the warmth and shelter and had a comfortable night in our sleeping bags.
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Look at the amazing hinges on this door!

To be continued. ..

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One comment on “Hiking the Pilgrim Route from Hell day two

  1. Pingback: Hiking the pilgrim route from Hell day three | strivetoengage

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This entry was posted on October 6, 2015 by in Nature and tagged , , , , .
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